Our Cashmere

Ply & Gauge

Ply refers to the number of cashmere strands twisted together to create the fabric. A higher ply does not indicate higher quality, but rather how thick and warm the sweater will be. A 2-ply cashmere sweater indicates that two strands of yarn have been combined, while 4-ply means that four strands have been combined.


Gauge is a commonly used term for how tightly cashmere is knitted. The higher the gauge, the finer the sweater. A 14-gauge sweater will have a heavier feel than a 7-gauge sweater.

Fiber Length

Fiber length is one of the determining factors of cashmere quality. Sweaters made with longer fibers hold their shape and are less prone to pilling, ultimately extending the life of the garment. Short fiber length is a strong indicator of pilling (so unfortunately, recycled cashmere, which has been cut many times to reproduce the yarn, tends to pill more easily). Grade A, the highest quality designation for cashmere, requires a length of 34-36 mm. All of Whitley’s cashmere has a minimum fiber length of 35 mm.

Feel

Cashmere is inherently soft. But judging a cashmere sweater by its softness alone can be deceiving. Some manufacturers add a resin to make sweaters softer in stores, but this will wear off over time. In other instances, the sweaters are over-washed, which will make them softer but will also take away from longevity. Good cashmere will get softer with wear, blossoming over time to become a beloved heirloom in your wardrobe.